Calcutta, now Kolkata, is a city steeped in history. Its cobbled streets whisper tales of colonial grandeur, bustling markets, and a vibrant cultural tapestry. But who better to unravel these stories than the man who explored the city not from a car window but with his bare feet firmly planted on its soul-P. Thankappan Nair, affectionately known as the "Barefoot Historian."
Nair, a self-taught historian who arrived in Calcutta from Kerala in 1955, wasn't captivated by the grandeur of the British Raj. He found magic in the everyday- the conversations with street vendors, the crumbling facades holding forgotten memories, and the echoes of a bygone era in the city's very fabric. Unlike his academic peers, Nair did not remain confined by dusty archives or rigid historical narratives. He walked, he talked, and he listened.
Imagine yourself joining Nair on one of his barefoot expeditions. You start at the bustling Howrah Bridge, a testament to British engineering prowess, yet a place where countless stories unfold- of porters carrying heavy loads, hawkers selling trinkets, and families embarking on new journeys. Nair would point out the intricate details- the rivets on the bridge, the changing colours of the Hooghly River beneath, and the stories etched on the faces of passersby. He wouldn't just tell you about Job Charnock, the Englishman credited with founding Calcutta, but about the vibrant pre-colonial settlements that existed long before.
Next, you might find yourselves wandering through the narrow lanes of Bowbazar, a neighbourhood pulsating with life. The aroma of spices mingles with the cacophony of street vendors while colonial-era buildings stand as silent sentinels. Nair would delve into the history of the Armenian community that once thrived here, their influence evident in the architecture and even the street names.
He might point out a hidden gem- a forgotten Armenian church or a crumbling mansion with a fascinating tale.
The journey wouldn't be complete without a visit to the iconic Maidan, a vast green expanse that has witnessed everything from colonial parades to political rallies. Nair would share stories of the revolutionaries who gathered here, the poets who found inspiration beneath the sprawling banyan trees, and the children who chase dreams on its dusty fields. He wouldn't just tell you about historical events but about the city's soul- its resilience, its spirit, and its ever-evolving character.
Nair's legacy isn't just about facts and figures but reminding us that history is beyond textbooks or grand monuments. It's woven into the very fabric of our cities, waiting for us to discover in the conversations with a street vendor, the peeling paint on a building, or the worn steps of an old staircase. He showed us we can learn the most profound historical lessons by walking, observing, and listening.
Sadly, P. Thankappan Nair passed away on 18th June 2024, leaving a void in the city's historical landscape. But his legacy lives on in the countless books he wrote, the uncountable walks he led, and the passion he ignited in others to explore the hidden stories of Calcutta.
So, the next time you find yourself in Kolkata, remember the Barefoot Historian- P Thankappan Nair. Do not forget to wear your walking shoes, embrace the city's vibrant chaos, and listen closely. You might merely discover your hidden stories waiting to remain unearthed on the streets of this fascinating metropolis.
