Patan patola continues to be the benchmark of a gorgeous traditional wear, an enduring legacy of age-old craftmanship
Besides celebs and billionaires, every other Indian with a flair for traditional clothing has confessed their admiration and love for patan patola. One of the nation’s most intricate and revered textiles, patan patola has its origin in Patan, a historic city in Gujarat. Patola is derived from the Sanskrit word “pattakulla,” which means silk fabric.
This exquisite silk weave, known for its double ikat technique, dates back to at least the 12th century. The Salvi family are the traditional weavers of patan patola, who migrated from Maharashtra to Gujarat. The labour-intensive process requires the warp and weft threads dyed before weaving. This process ensures that the design remains the same on both sides of the fabric, showcasing the incredible skill of the artisans. Royal houses treasured the artistry of patola, often draping the fabric to flaunt wealth, power, and piety.
The patola sarees are always associated with royalty and aristocracy. It once was a symbol of grandeur worn during sacred ceremonies and festivals. Today, major fashion designers have taken upon the task of experimenting with the fabric and churned out some amazing designs to drape.
Traditionally, patan patola sarees were worn in a draped style that highlighted intricate patterns and vibrant shades. Women from royal families and affluent households would drape these sarees in the Nivi style, a common way of wearing sarees across India, with the pallu (the end part of the saree) draped over the shoulder, allowing the detailed designs to be prominently displayed. Now donning the weave in a refashioned way, upholding the essence and aesthetic of the fabric, is not entirely unheard of.
While the traditional method of draping Patola sarees remains revered, contemporary fashion has seen several innovative styles emerge, reflecting both respect for tradition and the desire for modern expression.
The Nivi style remains popular, where the saree is pleated and the pallu is draped over the shoulder, showcasing the intricate designs. This style is common in weddings and formal events—among guests and the bride-to-be.
In this style, the pallu is brought from the back to the front and draped over the right shoulder. This style, traditionally worn in Gujarat, accentuates beautiful patterns, such as ratanchowk, navaratna, chanda bhat, and phul bhat with the motifs of elephants, gems and solar system, walnuts, squares, and eight-petalled loutu; and is often seen during festivals and religious ceremonies.
A modern twerk to the traditional fabric and weaving, this style involves wearing the patan patola saree pleated around the waist like a skirt with the pallu draped like a dupatta. This fusion style has found a place in pop culture as it offers a blend traditional and contemporary fashion.
Patan patola fabric is sometimes used to create gowns or long dresses, infusing the traditional elegance into Western silhouettes. This style has brought patan patola to a global audience.
Patan patola saree is often repurposed into a dupatta, which is then paired with a simple kurta or lehenga. This style allows the intricate designs to be highlighted without the need for an entire saree, making it more versatile for casual and semi-formal occasions.
The evolution of patan patola reflects the preservation of antiquated crafts that cannot be replaced or replicated by machine. Today, fashion connoisseurs are keen on exploring fresh colour pallets and innovative designs patan patolas to give the good ol’ weave a contemporary edge.
